Holy Moley Brewing Co., located in Dennison, Ohio, is gearing up to celebrate its third anniversary in January 2024. The brewery, founded by Gary McCullough, marks a significant milestone as it continues to grow in a community that once had limited access to craft beer options. McCullough, who dedicated over 30 years to Timken Co., transitioned into brewing as a retirement venture, transforming a historic church into a vibrant space for craft beer enthusiasts.
A Unique Journey to Brewing
McCullough’s journey into the world of brewing began with over 25 years of home brewing experience. His passion for beer and the brewing process inspired him to create a space where he could share his craft. “I love the craft-beer folks and the taste in my beers,” he said. “I thought, ‘Man, when I retire, this would be perfect.’” The building, constructed in 1897, was once a church and has been well-preserved, offering “very good bones” for a brewery.
After purchasing the property, McCullough faced challenges due to the town’s dry status. He successfully petitioned the community for permission to sell wine on Sundays, receiving overwhelming support despite some initial opposition. “Very little pushback,” he noted regarding community concerns about serving alcohol in a former church. McCullough’s unique position as an ordained minister adds to the character of the brewery, which features tasteful tap handles shaped like crosses.
Crafting a Community Hub
Holy Moley Brewing Co. has quickly become a community hub, drawing visitors from surrounding areas, including New Philadelphia and even cities as far away as Columbus and Pittsburgh. Approximately 70 percent of the brewery’s clientele comes from these nearby locations. The brewery utilizes a two-barrel brewing system, previously operated by the now-closed Shale Brewing Co. in North Canton, allowing McCullough to craft a selection of beers that reflect the local history.
The brewery’s top seller, Jerkwater, a Pale Ale, pays homage to the rail industry that once thrived in Dennison. McCullough explains that the term “jerkwater” refers to small towns that lacked a water tower, relying instead on troughs along the railroads for water. “The trains never stopped, and the town never prospered,” he said, emphasizing the historical significance behind the name.
In addition to beer, Holy Moley also produces an array of wines and plans to expand its offerings. McCullough is looking to introduce a kitchen by spring 2024, featuring sandwich platters, charcuterie, and gourmet flatbreads, as he aims to attract more visitors and enhance the brewery experience. “We want to get people to stick around longer and drink more beer,” he stated.
As a quaint village with a rich history, Dennison is evolving, and the establishment of Holy Moley Brewing Co. is a testament to this change. With its unique atmosphere and community-focused approach, the brewery is not just a place to enjoy drinks but an experience that honors the past while looking toward the future.
In the coming months, McCullough is also exploring the possibility of hosting events such as Bourbon tastings and Sunday brunches featuring mimosas. The brewery’s commitment to creating an inviting environment is evident in its efforts to foster a sense of community and connection.
As Holy Moley Brewing Co. approaches its third anniversary, it stands as a symbol of resilience and innovation in a small town, proving that even in quieter settings, vibrant businesses can flourish.
