Samin Nosrat, renowned chef and author of the acclaimed cookbook, “Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat,” has unveiled a cherished waffle recipe in her latest book, “Good Things: Recipes and Rituals to Share With People You Love.” This recipe pays homage to the iconic Marion Cunningham, known for her modern adaptations of “The Fannie Farmer Cookbook.” Nosrat’s waffle journey began with her childhood fondness for Eggo waffles but transformed after she tasted Cunningham’s yeast-raised version.
In her book, Nosrat describes a memorable breakfast at the home of her kitchen sister, Amy Dencler, who now serves as the chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. “My teeth shattered the lacy edges and sank into the center, releasing more of that toasted yeast flavor,” Nosrat reflects. She emphasizes Cunningham’s assertion that these waffles are “the best waffle I know,” a sentiment she wholeheartedly shares.
Unlike store-bought options, these waffles require about 10 minutes of preparation the night before, leading to a delightful payoff. “I have not been able to achieve that texture with any other batter, and certainly not from a batter that doesn’t rest overnight,” Nosrat explains. The resting process allows the yeast to ferment, enhancing both flavor and texture, resulting in waffles that are airy, tender, and perfectly crisp.
The preparation begins with a blend of activated yeast, flour, warm milk, eggs, baking soda, and butter. After mixing, the batter rests in the refrigerator overnight, developing a complex taste. The following morning, all that remains is cooking the waffles and enjoying them warm, drizzled with syrup.
Nosrat’s weekend mornings often involve a gentle routine filled with warmth and comfort. “I try to extend the morning by cuddling with my pup in bed,” she shares, before making her way to the kitchen for a cup of cardamom-spiked coffee or tea. This calming start beautifully complements the waffle-making process, which reflects the essence of her new cookbook.
The title of her book draws inspiration from Raymond Carver’s story, “A Small, Good Thing.” Nosrat highlights a poignant epigraph: “Eating is a small, good thing in a time like this.” This message resonates deeply, as she acknowledges the comfort that good food brings, particularly during challenging times.
The recipe for Marion’s Yeasted Waffles is straightforward yet rewarding. These waffles, fresh from the iron, are delightful on their own but can be elevated with toppings. Nosrat suggests adding a layer of almond or peanut butter and a drizzle of maple syrup. For those seeking a savory twist, a slice of crispy bacon tucked within the waffle, topped with a fried egg, offers a delicious alternative.
For busy weekdays, Nosrat recommends preparing a double batch and freezing the extras. This allows for a quick breakfast fix; simply toast the waffles directly from frozen for a convenient meal option.
**Marion’s Yeasted Waffles Recipe**
*Yields: 12 to 16 waffles*
*Prep time: 10 minutes*
*Rest time: Overnight*
*Cook time: 20 minutes*
*Total active time: About 30 minutes*
**Ingredients**
– 2 1⁄4 teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast
– 1 tablespoon sugar
– 1⁄2 cup (120 grams) warm water
– 2 cups (485 grams) whole milk
– 8 tablespoons (4 ounces/114 grams) unsalted butter or ghee, melted, plus more for cooking
– 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
– 2 cups (270 grams) all-purpose flour
– 2 large eggs, lightly whisked
– 1⁄4 teaspoon baking soda
– Salted butter and warm maple syrup or apricot jam for serving
**Instructions**
1. In a large bowl, whisk together the yeast, sugar, and warm water. Allow the mixture to sit until foamy, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the warm milk, melted butter or ghee, and salt, whisking until combined. Gradually add the flour and whisk until smooth. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
3. To cook the waffles, preheat an oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius) and place a wire rack on a sheet pan. Heat the waffle iron.
4. Whisk the eggs and baking soda into the batter. Brush the waffle iron with melted butter and pour 1⁄4 cup of batter into each section. Let it set for about 15 seconds before closing the lid. Cook at the highest setting, flipping as needed, until the waffles are crisp and golden, about 4 to 5 minutes. Keep the prepared waffles warm in the oven.
5. Serve with salted butter and warm maple syrup or apricot jam. Store any leftovers in an airtight bag in the freezer and toast to reheat.
This recipe, adapted from Nosrat’s book, encapsulates her philosophy of sharing good food and creating comforting rituals. As readers discover the joy of these waffles, they are invited to create their own moments of connection around the table.
